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How alpha arbutin works on skin?
Nov 26, 2021

The whitening kinetic mechanism of α-arbutin is mainly to study the effect of α-arbutin on the enzymatic kinetics during the formation of melanin, which is mainly manifested in the effect on the two enzymatic activities of tyrosinase.

(1) α-Arbutin is used as a whitening agent, and its whitening mechanism is mainly to inhibit the activity of monophenolase phenolase and prevent tyrosinase from catalyzing the conversion of L-tyrosine to L-dopa. α-Arbutin has a strong inhibitory effect on the monophenolase of tyrosinase, but α-arbutin has a certain activation effect on the diphenolase of tyrosinase, and the mechanism of action is shown as follows: Competitive and non-competitive mixed activation. This activation is mainly to change the process of enzyme catalytic reaction by increasing enzyme catalytic activity.

(2) The IC50 value of α-arbutin's inhibitory effect on monophenolase is 2.7mmol/L, which is significantly lower than the 5.3mmol/L of β-arbutin reported in the literature, indicating that its inhibitory effect is better than β-arbutin . α-Arbutin has a strong inhibitory effect on monophenolase, so that it can be added to whitening cosmetics and used as a whitening agent. Now it is also the focus of its extensive research.

(3) α-Arbutin has a certain activating effect on tyrosinase diphenolase, which can accelerate the conversion of L-dopa into dopaquinone, and then produce melanin. Therefore, α-arbutin can be added to shampoos for hair darkening together with Dopa to achieve the purpose of darkening hair, but this performance has not been extensively studied.

(4) Different surfactants have different effects on tyrosinase, and also have different effects on the effect of α-arbutin activating diphenolase.

Alpha-arbutin powder

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